Stable alternative to kojic acid
INCI Name : Kojic Dipalmitate
Chemical Name /Synonyms : 2-palmitoyloxymethyl-5-palmitoyloxy- γ- pyrone;
Hexadecanoic acid, 4-oxo-6-[[(1-oxohexadecyl)oxy]methyl]-4H-pyran-3-yl ester; KAD
Trade Name : MC-KAD
CAS No. : 79725-98-7
Molecular Formula : C38H66O6
Molecular Weight : 618.9
Structure :
Kojic Dipalmitate
BENEFITS
Skin lightening | Kojic dipalmitate is more efficacious than kojic acid in inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase present in human skin so as to inhibit the melanin formation and produce excellent effects in whitening skin and in anti-suntan. | ||
Solubility and skin absorbance | Kojic acid dipalmitate is oil soluble and is more easily absorbed into skin when it is incorporated into a cream as compared with kojic acid | ||
Kojic Acid Dipalmitate | Kojic Acid | ||
Compatibility | Compatible with almost all cosmetic ingredients, especially advantageous for use in combination with sunscreens | may not be compatible with some organic sunscreens and preservatives due to potential hydrogen bonding | |
Stability | |||
Light | Stable | Unstable to light | |
Heat | Stable. A cream containing 1% KAD found no color change when kept at 45°C for 4 weeks | Especially unstable above 40°C. A cream containing 1% Kojic acid become deep yellowish brown when kept at 45°C for 4 weeks | |
pH | Stable between 3 and 10 | Unstable when pH exceed 7 | |
Oxidation | Not oxidizable | Particularly oxidizable | |
Metal ions | Not complex with metals | Chelate with metal ions ( e.g. iron) and color changes occur. | |
Color stability | No color change occur | Easily become yellow or brown |
Functions
● Lightening/whitening : Inhibit tyrosinase and melanin formation, ameliorate dermal pigmentation. Provide excellent effects in even toning skin, fighting age spots, pregnancy marks, freckles as well as general pigmentation disorders.
● Toning/Invigorating
● Anti-aging
Application
Body/facial care toners, anti-aging preparations, sun protection, after-sun & self-tanning, skin whitening/lightening, treatment for a variety of skin hyperpigmentation conditions or disorders, e.g. solar lentigenes, melasma, chloasma, scars, freckles, age pigment and other local hyperpigmented regions of the skin
Use Level: 1 to 5%
Storage
Store in a cool and dry place. Keep away from direct strong light and heat.
Specification
Appearance : White to almost white crystalline powder.
Easily soluble in tetrahydrofuran and hot ethanol
Identification : IR
Melting point (℃) : 94.0-97.0
Loss on drying (%) : ≤ 0.5
Tinctorial reaction of FeCl3 : Negative
Residue on ignition (%) : ≤ 0.1
Heavy metals ( pb, ppm) : <10
Assay (%) : ≥98.0
Formulation Suggestions
KAD is difficult to incorporate into the formulation, and it easily precipitates in the form of crystals. To solve this problem, it is suggested that isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate be added to the oil phase, and heat the oil phase to 80℃ and keep at this temperature for about 5 minutes so that KAD completely dissolved, then add the oil phase to water phase for emulsification at the same temperature for 10 minutes or so. Generally, pH in final product is generally around 5.0—8.0.
Unlike Kojic Acid, which may not be compatible with some organic sunscreens and preservatives due to potential hydrogen bonding, Kojic Dipalmitate is compatible with virtually all ingredients and is especially advantageous for use in combination with sunscreens.
Documentation:
kojic dipalmitate formulation.pdf